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Beomosa Temple

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As you probably know, I now work at Busan University of Foreign Studies which sits right next to Beomosa Temple. I visited there a few weeks ago when the cherry blossoms were blooming. I returned there last night to check on the lanterns for Buddha’s birthday and was really impressed.

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As I noted in my last post, I was not really feeling the lanterns this year but Beomosa really impressed me. It was not an “over-the-top” display like Samgwangsa but a more elegant display. Paths were lit by red lanterns and you were guided to the main pavilion by them as well. The trees along the main path looked amazing in the red glow of the lanterns.

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White lanterns and yellow ribbons to remember the Sewol victims.

Just before the main hall and pavillion in what is normally think is the parking lot, now it the site for the larger lanterns and an area to pray and send your condolences to the victims and their families. In the fading light it was a powerful piece that many people respected.

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under the main meeting area

The entrance to the temple is lined with lanterns and leads you right up to the main pavillion. What is unique about this pathway is that you actually walk under one of the meeting hall to enter the pavillion. This gives the lantern-covered area even more power in my opinion. It was a great feeling, as always, to be standing under the glow of the lanterns during this time.

Monks work hard to replace to burnt out light at the temple.

Monks work hard to replace to burnt out light at the temple.

Blue hour at Beomosa is a magical time

Blue hour at Beomosa is a magical time

Monks prepare for the big day

Monks prepare for the big day

As the night progressed, my wife and I explored the rest of the temple and the pathways. I really loved how the used only the red lanterns to light the paths. The way that they lit up the surrounding trees and bamboo was amazing.

Lantern-lit walkway is a beautiful thing

Lantern-lit walkway is a beautiful thing

 

At any rate, tonight is the big night and I am hoping to get out one last time to end the holiday just right. I hoped that you enjoyed these shots and don’t forget to give my facebook page a little love if you have the time!

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Lanterns light the way home

 


Jason Teale 

Photographer, educator, podcaster

Podcast    Website    Instagram

Photographing Korea and the world beyond!

 

 

Is Everyone Deeply Moved by the Sewol Tragedy?


I have been contemplating the possibility that I am one seriously heartless bastard lately. This may surprise some of the people who know me best because I think they would say I am a really nice guy, not short of an opinion or two and a bit argumentative, but nice nonetheless.

So why have I been thinking this?  Well this is going to sound horrible, but I really don't have a huge emotional response to the Sewol tragedy.  However, I am interested in it for sure, it is a fascinating story of calamitous errors, negligence, and corruption, and there is an interesting debate about the causes, the culture, the government, and all that.

Don't get me wrong, when I see a report I get a little sad and angry because I teach high schoolers in Korea and they are a great bunch of kids and I am a human being with a soul (no, really I am a human being, the soul bit is a just a figure of speech as I don't actually believe in all that stuff, but you know what I mean).  But after I have finished reading an article or watching a report on the Sewol disaster, I emotionally switch-off very quickly.  If I am being honest with myself, I think this means that I really don't care that much.  What I do care about, though, is the potential for something to happen to me or someone I love in Korea because of a safety concern, as Korea is not the safest of places when it comes to having avoidable accidents.  This is, however, slightly mitigated by low crime; I am far more likely to find myself with a bottle smashed over my head for no reason in my own country, for example, so I lose little sleep worrying about a disastrous tomorrow.

I lose even less sleep thinking about those poor passengers on the Sewol, but judging by what I have read, everyone else appears to be deeply moved:

From the Wall Street Journal:  Children's Day Becomes a Day of Grief

From CNN: Ferry Disaster's Toll on Korean Psyche

I just don't feel this way and maybe I married a heartless Korean woman, but she is hardly at the point of despair either, in fact most I have met, Korean or not, as this tragedy has played itself out over the last few weeks have not seemed that upset either.  Maybe they are good at hiding it or I'm terrible at seeing it, but with the people I know well, they must be damn good actors.  I simply am not observing this deep sense of sadness, guilt and mourning that other observers say they are experiencing here.  Maybe there is a greater intensity occurring in Ansan and the surrounds of Seoul, where most of the writing has come from and where most of the passengers that died came from.  But I know one thing for sure, not all expats, not all Koreans, and certainly not everyone worldwide has been "deeply affected by the Sewol tragedy".

So, I hate to say it, but I am left with the feeling of scepticism that what is being written by many is an accurate expression of their true emotions, or the country's as a whole, and not just a popular exaggeration. I get the same feeling with news broadcasters, that they are saying what they think they should say rather than genuinely feeling it.

This sounds unfair, I don't know what is going on in their heads.  In my head, I read with scepticism and the feeling it is a bit sickly sweet and OTT.  It is surely my problem, not theirs, what's wrong with me?  Why don't I feel the same sense of sadness?  I am sure what they wrote is genuine and from the heart, but I can't help but feel the world is awash with people who say they care, but really don't.

I don't think I am in the minority of people who are - when you think about it - a bit heartless.  With so much suffering in the world not only occurring, but being beamed on to our computers and TV screens, it would be impossible to run our daily lives without regularly going into fits of depression if we cared so much about it all.

It could all be down to evolution.  Altruism has more than likely evolved in an environment of small groups of, often related, kin.  We have evolved to care about the suffering of others right in front of our eyes and to those we are closely related to.  Fortunately, the urge regularly fires-up for strangers and even animals when we see them suffering pain or distress, but it still usually needs to be happening right in front of us for us to take notice. Is this why I feel something when I watch a news report about a tragic event, but then it subsides quickly when I switch off (the old 'out of sight, out of mind' tendency)?  In a classic argument by Peter Singer (The Shallow Pond Problem), he highlights this misfiring of empathy and morality with a simple thought experiment (skip to 2 minutes in for the argument):



Another favourite writer of mine, Sam Harris, has written about this failure of compassion as well, but also highlights another concerning misfiring of our instinct for compassion, empathy and caring, and that is that it tends to go down with the more people we see or know are suffering (see 'Genocide Neglect', Slovic 2007). This partly explains the success charities have with adoption programs, where instead of giving money to help 1 million people in Africa affected by malaria, we sponsor one child instead.  Of course in reality, your money goes to help many people, but by appealing to just one, the charity is more successful in making people donate.  Harris explains this 'moral illusion' in the video below at 58mins 30 secs:


So it appears that I am not unique.  In a way, I am envious of the bloggers and writers I linked to above if they really do genuinely feel that way and show it.  Because as much as I know I should feel a great deal more empathy for the passengers and the families of the Sewol tragedy than I did, say, when my in-laws tied a puppy Jindo dog named Noah up outside in the cold (that I took care of for a while, read this post), I don't.  I can logically understand that I am wrong here and that I have warped priorities, but I don't feel emotion for the passengers with anywhere near the same force as I did for that dog, not even close.

I know this lack of emotion in me for such tragedies in the lives of others is a real problem in the world. Without the emotion, people will fail to act in meaningful ways to stop mass suffering, and sure enough, people do just that, I do just that.

I do see a pattern occurring in the world of the internet at the moment.  When you work in Korea, you have a lot of time, often at work while desk-warming, to browse around the internet and writing this blog encourages me to do this even more.  What I see is heaps of moral outrage, emotion-filled messages of support for those in need, and internet campaigns to improve the lives of others and fight injustice in the world.  But too much of it seems empty and pointless at the end of the day; lots of words, no action, and the moral outrage and outpourings of emotion never last long on one subject, we just move onto the next story to get our emotional fix and we are saturated by examples of injustice and sad stories.  I think it is problematic because it creates the illusion that something is being done and the illusion that you are helping, when in reality, nothing is being done and you yourself are doing nothing as well.  While the internet has a strength in raising awareness of issues, its weakness is definitely in what I describe above.

I am troubled by my lack of compassion, not just about the Sewol disaster, but all manner of problems in the world and the fact that until writing this sentence I hadn't really even given a moments thought to the fact that undoubtedly significantly more lives were lost on the roads in Korea this year.  Why care about that any less? Perhaps it is impossible to care about everything, or perhaps my heart is not capacious enough, maybe I am indeed truly heartless.

Note:  Due to criticism that I might be insinuating disingenuous shows of emotion by fellow bloggers I have removed quotes from them out of good taste.  It was never my intention to question their motives and I apologise to those I did quote if it came across that way.




어린이날: Children’s Day

Since last week, my students have been bugging me to give them free time for the whole period as a gift for them on Children’s Day. Of course, I would not let them waste forty minutes in the classroom just chattering or playing on … Continue reading
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어린이날: Children’s Day

IMG_0210Since last week, my students have been bugging me to give them free time for the whole period as a gift for them on Children’s Day. Of course, I would not let them waste forty minutes in the classroom just chattering or playing on their smart phones. It would be total chaos! I wasn’t going to give in to their whim, but I decided to spare 10 minutes of our class for a game. I even let one of my upper school classes watch a magic show in my tab. Thank God, the games and the magic show were enough to pacify them.

Most of the kids were excited about Children’s Day that all they could talk about during our conversation was what they were going to do on Monday. Some of the kids said that they would go to the amusement park or go shopping with Mom and Dad; some would spend the holiday with friends. Others only wanted to play games in the PC방 (internet cafe); then there was D, a new student, who said he doesn’t care about Children’s Day. I thought that he was just being sarcastic, but when I asked him why, I realized what he meant. “I’m (I can) not go anywhere,” he exclaimed, exasperated, “I have many (much) homework.”

“Well, you can do your homework first, then do what you want,” I told him.

“Mom say(s) study study study…”

“I’m sure she will give you some time to have fun on Children’s Day.”

D shrugged his shoulders and sighed hopelessly. He reminded me of a girl from my class who got Math workbooks for Christmas and was told by her Mom to finish them in a month.

Not all Korean parents are like D’s mom. In fact, many Korean parents give a great thought to what can make their kids happy on Children’s Day.

 

1May 5th is 어린이날 or Children’s Day in South Korea. In other countries, it is celebrated on November 20th, according to the United Nations official recommendation. Children’s Day is more like Christmas for Korean kids. When this day falls on a weekday, children don’t go to school or academies. Most of the parents are given a day off, so they can spend time with their little ones. Parents take their children to amusements parks, zoos, museums or picnic grounds, sometimes out-of-town. Shopping for toys or clothes is also a common activity. For busy families, simple lunch or dinner will suffice. On Children’s Day, my husband’s nieces come to our house to visit their grandparents. My parents-in-law prepare expensive presents for them. Parents and grandparents usually buy gifts for the children or give them money.

I used to give candies or chocolates to my students, but this time, the occasion slipped out of my mind, so instead of treats, I offered them a better gift…

I often give homework to my students, but last Thursday, I didn’t give them any. I thought about D and other students who were already bombarded with a lot of assignments from school and hagwons (academies). I didn’t want to add to their stress and take up most of their time accomplishing homework when they could be outside enjoying their special day. Even kids need a break, too, especially on the day dedicated to them.

Samgwangsa

If you’re in Busan in the weeks leading up to Buddha’s birthday, Samgwangsa is a must see. The Seomyeon temple, while beautiful in its own right, becomes amazing during this time of year, when it is decorated with over 10,000 lanterns to celebrate.  Not only did Ric and I have an awesome time wandering through the temple and taking photos, we also got to climb out a window (!) onto the temple’s roof to photograph the vista with like 50 other folks who were visiting on the day we were there.  As we climbed out onto the narrow roofway and began to take in the sight that lay before us, a photographer looked over and said, “Welcome to the Temple.”

Welcome, indeed. 

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Getting There:  From Seomyeon Station, take exit 13 and walk around the corner to the bus stop. Catch bus 81.  It takes about 20 minutes to get there.  We recommend arriving a little before dusk so that you can explore the temple before and after the lanterns are lit.  

 


Filed under: Uncategorized Tagged: Buddha's Birthday, Busan, Korea, Samgwangsa, Seomyeon, Temples, Things to Do, Things to See

An Old Fisherman’s Advice

 

We were walking around Jumunjin Harbour on an early April morning. The sun was warm and the docks were busy with tourists and workers. Underneath the carpark the wharf was busier than usual. Long gone were the fish sellers, moved to another less in the way location of the port, so to see so much coming and going was unusual. While not regulars in Jumunjin port, we would be more regular that most and seeing a flurry activity as such was something reserved for the height of the squid season, and it was not that time of year yet.

We edged closer, hopping over river sized puddles and landing on tiny atolls of uneven concrete, until we came to what was of so much anxiety and interest to the workers and curious visitors. On the concrete were nets and nets full of fish. They were litterally exploding with them. To see nets this full in a small port like Jumunjin, where even in their tourist markets they mostly sell farmed fish, was a delight. There were wheelbarrows full to bursting being shoved past, and nets being stretched long for cleaning and recasting. Of greatest interest though was the a stocky greying man, sitting on a plastic chair pulling the fish from the nets.

Herself began to talk to him, as I tried to take a few photographs of the action. He was very garrulous and you could tell that the catch had enlivened him. He cracked jokes and offered advice. We put in an order for some fish and a much used plastic shopping bag returned full to near bursting with oily, unscaled and still to be gutted fish. I think they said there was twenty in it, but later we found that there had to be even more. They charged us a mere 10,000 won.

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As we stood around chatting with and I continued to take photographs, he made a suggestion.

“Why don’t you sit down here and pull the fish out, and I’ll take a photograph of you while you do it? You can even wear my oilskins and hat”. He laughed out loud at the idea and gave my wife one of those looks, while nodding in my direction. Needless to say, me being no fun and afraid of actual work I declined the offer, shirking away in the process. The man didn’t seemed bothered and continued to laugh and crack jokes with Herself.

Later that day as I was looking back over my photos I could not help but think about this suggestion. He didn’t seemed bothered by any stretch of the imagination, and was certainly only having a good laugh at my expense, and probably rightly so. What I could not stop thinking of was that this was worthwhile advice for anyone who is a  tourist, or a photographer, or just whoever is nosey and wants to inspect as you go about your work. If you think that something is so fantastic you feel enticed to point and stare, or photograph, or watch with intense critical interest, perhaps you should don those oilskins yourself and really see how interesting an experience it is.

Whenever we travel we take so much time to find authentic experiences, but rarely do we take into account that what is an authentic experience to someone is a life and way of living to another. Yes it’s interesting, but isn’t it more important to have a little personal respect for people who are going about their lives? It’s not as if they would choose to be so interesting to the point of fascinating.

 

Seoul’s Filipino Market

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Happy Market Monday, where the first Monday of each month we highlight a different market in Seoul!

 

One of my favorite trips I’ve taken in Asia would have to be the Philippines. Whenever I am struck with memories of the trip I can’t refrain from grinning ear to ear. The friendly people, out of this world beaches and amazing food are just some of the things I love about the place!

 

Luckily I can have a little taste of the Philippines every weekend in Seoul. Seoul’s Filipino market happens every Sunday in Hayehwa. From 12-4 the streets outside exit one are transformed into an open-air market filled with Filipino food, sundries and cooking supplies. Here you can find many everyday Filipino items like sweet mangos or coconut mixes or items as rear as durian and duck fetuses.

 

 

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There are currently over 7,000 Filipino expatriates living in Seoul. The market was originally established to ease homesickness for Filipino nationals living in Seoul, however it has expanded and now people of all kinds, living in Korea, enjoy attending. It is easy to see the markets popularity by the big crowds that visit each weekend.

 

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Visit this market with an appetite. If you are lucky enough to find a seat at one of the food stalls, you can feast on authentic dishes including pork adobo, lumpia (egg rolls) and pancit (glass noodles). Food is fresh and delicious! Prices range from 1,000- 6,000 won. A Filipino lunch wouldn’t be the same without a coconut juice or San Miguel that is also offered at the market.

 When: Sunday 12-4

Directions: Subway Line 4 Hyehwa Station, Exit 1. Walk straight toward Hyehwa Catholic Church. The market will be on your right.

 

 


Seoul Lantern Festival

I was skimming through some photos in my camera and found a lot of pictures from last year’s Seoul Lantern Festival which my husband and I came to see before we went to the Philippines in November. I was going to talk about the festival and share the photos in my blog, but I suffered from “temporary amnesia” as a result of my preoccupation with our business in the PI. Now I’m back in Korea, back to sanity, back to blogging… but I miss my Mom and the family back home. I can’t wait to see them again this summer.

Before “temporary amnesia” strikes again, here are the photos from last year’s Seoul Lantern Festival. This post is rather late, but the festival is held annually, so if you haven’t been to one, these pictures will give you an idea of what you can expect to see if you plan to witness the festivity.

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z3z4z5During the festival, hundreds of resplendent lanterns, made by international and local artists, are lit and displayed onCheonggyecheon Stream. The colorful lanterns represent a different story each year. Last year, the theme, entitled“Haensong Baekje: Dream of a Thousand Years, focused on the 700-year-history of Baekje.

cfgz14z16ijSeoul Lantern Festival began in 2009. Since then, it has attracted a lot of tourists and locals. When my husband and I went to the festival, it was the last night the lanterns were going to be on display. We weren’t expecting many people, but even on the last day of the exhibit, the place was teeming with sightseers.

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The beautifully handcrafted lanterns are made from hanji or the traditional handmade “paper of Korea”. The main material for making hanji is the thread-like skin of the inner bark of the mulberry.

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h2hThere were lanterns from other countries, too, like Taiwan and the Philippines.

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I was thrilled to see a giant Christmas tree from Pampanga, my hometown. Many visitors flocked the 6.3 meter-tallPhilippine-made Christmas tree to take a photo. Two hundred vibrant capiz or windowpane oyster shell lanterns were put together to make the outstanding tree.z19z21z18

Although it was windy and chilly, my husband and I enjoyed the long walk along Cheonggyecheon Stream.

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ez171Anywhere we set our eyes upon, there was a uniquely designed piece of art with a story to tell. Beside each lantern was a brief description that can be read in Korean and English. We were being reminded to move in haste from time to time, because of the throng of people behind us, so I couldn’t read all the descriptions, but lucky for me, I had my husband to explain what some of the lanterns are or what they represent.

An ornament attached to the nobility's crown

An ornament attached to the nobility’s crown

An ornament attached to crown

A pair of shoes

A pair of royal shoes

(This one escapes me.)

(This one escapes me.)

A helmet

A helmet

A hilt (sword handle)

A hilt (sword handle)

Besides the giant Christmas tree from my country, my other favorites are the lanterns of women holding traditional musical instruments.

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If you would like to see this year’s Seoul Lantern Festival, you can visit their website to check the dates and other activities lined up for the whole festivity period.

The easiest way to get to the venue is by subway:

Subway Line 5, Gwanghwamun Station Exit ⑤ (walk 3 minutes)
Subway Line 1, Jonggak Station Exit ⑤ (walk 3 minutes)
Subway Line 2, Euljiro 1-ga Station Exits ②,③ (walk 6 minutes)

You can get detailed directions by clicking this link. Admission is free. Don’t forget to bring your camera with you! ^^

Seoul Lantern Festival

I was skimming through some photos in my camera and found a lot of pictures from last year’s Seoul Lantern Festival which my husband and I came to see before we went to the Philippines in November. I was going … Continue reading

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