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Open Thread #8: Superfuturism & Anitiquity

( “Fade to Red” by StudioQube. Source: deviantART)

Thoughts for the weekend, from boingboing:

Marilyn from National Geographic sez, “I think you’ll love these Shanghai photos by Fritz Hoffmann in March National Geo. It’s hard to believe such a superfuturistic megacity also looks like a village from 100 years ago.”

What she said. There are lots of places in the world where seamless high-tech and ancient cobblestones exist side by side, but I’ve never been anywhere in which you can go from one to the other so quickly as Shanghai. One moment you’re on the set of Blade Runner, then you turn a corner and you’re in a historical drama, with no sign of glass-and-steel in sight.

And of course most Korean cities are some of those places, and perhaps Seoul in particular. Something surprisingly absent from the discussion at boingboing though, is that in many senses such places can be considered ecotones, a geographical term for the zone where 2 ecosystems meet, and all the much richer and more diverse than either because of the ensuing interaction.

Seriously, nearly 10 years after I arrived in Korea, I still love wandering around such districts occasionally: the constant juxtapositions to be experienced there remind of how I felt when I first came. Unfortunately however, Korea’s misguided attempts at “modernization” means that they may not be around much longer, so make sure to enjoy them while you still can.

To end on a more positive note then, here is my latest favorite K-pop song, or again my new favorite Areia remix at least: Because of you (너 때문에), by After School (애프터스쿨; download the MP3 here). Clearly portraying a lesbian relationship despite the ostensibly heterosexual lyrics, I’ll definitely be analyzing it in depth at some point, but until then I’d be more interested in hearing your own thoughts. Enjoy!^^

Update: And before I forget, here’s a remix of Tell Me Your Wish (소원을 말해봐) by Girls’ Generation (소녀시대) also. But by a different DJ this time, and in my opinion a much deeper, warmer version of the original that makes it actually worth listening to, rather than the song merely being a means to provide some eye candy and indirect advertising via the music video. Skeptics, try the first 15 seconds at least, and if you don’t like those then you simply have no soul(!); everyone else, download the MP3 here.

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Filed under: East Asia, Girl Groups, Korean Music, Open Threads Tagged: After School, Areia, DJAMAYAOFFICIAL, Girls' Generation
  

 

Nameless Streets and Hussy Coffee

 

I like a good street name.  In Melbourne, ten years ago, I lived on Byron Street.  The house was brown and white and had a front porch with an old blue couch straddled across it.  My roomate Kate called it The Byron House.  

“Where do you live?” someone might ask. 

 ”Byron,” I could say.  “Left off of Tennyson, if you’re walking from St. Kilda.”  

The street name, like the house, gave me a distinct sense of belonging, even though Melbourne was temporary, the room was rented, and in the end I left it all after only four months. 

You hear about streets, in cities you’ve maybe never been to and will maybe never see.  The names of roads and avenues occupy a shared lexicon, surfacing in conversation, in the paper, on the lips of friends who’ve just returned.  Bloor and Yonge and Queen in Toronto.  Robson and Granville and West 4th in Vancouver.  Broadway and Madison in NYC.  Oxford Street in London.  Even Edmonton has its Whyte Ave.  Part of the collective urban identity is to know where a street is and what rugged and beautiful haunts you’ll find when you stroll along it.  The street is the artery.  It leads to the heart. 

So, Day One in Busan, stepping out of the Rotary Motel and into the pale sun, I wished to find two things: a cup of coffee and the name of the main street closest to the motel, mostly so I could feel free to wander and know I would find my way back.  

I didn’t have high hopes for the coffee.  My friend Cathy is teaching in Gangneung, a city north of here, and I’d read on a photo caption she posted that the Koreans drink a lot of instant.  The only person who has ever offered me instant coffee was, bless her, my Grandma Lil.  That was also the only time I drank it.  

A minute from the motel, I hit the main street, subway station to the left, buildings climbing everywhere, and Korean women trotting in heels and leggings and dresses, bows clipped into their hair, Korean men in dark suits and skinny ties, all heading somewhere.  Bundles of deep green seaweed were piled up along plastic tables on the sidewalk.  The air smelled like sewage and soup broth.  I turned right toward the intersection, and walked ten minutes down the road.  What appeared to be names were posted on a couple side streets: I saw a “Gongni 5(o) ro” and a “Gongni 4 (o) ro.”  But the main street, and it was CLEARLY a main street–it stretched for miles, it hosted a subway stop–had no name in sight.  I crossed over and back.  No sign.  No name.  But suddenly, in front of me, a coffee shop called…HUSSY coffee?

Inside, Americano was spelled out in English on the menu.  Americanos!  In Korea!  The woman behind the counter wore a ponytail and a black apron that said Hussy in red letters.  She looked like a schoolgirl.  I asked for cream but there was none and when I asked for milk she seemed confused that I didn’t order a cappucino.  I took a sip, said thank you in English, reminded myself to learn thank you in Korean, and stepped back out to the nameless street.  The coffee was weak and thin.  I chugged it back anyway.  Turns out the streets in Korea don’t have names, and when they do, no one uses them.  Jason, an American teacher I work with, explained this to me the following day.   

“So how do people know where they’re going?” I asked.  “Or where they are?”    

“Landmarks,” he said.    

I saw a clear example of this today, two weeks later, looking at the directions to Club Fabric, where Jason’s wife Ashley is performing this weekend in a comedy sketch with a bunch of other expats.  There is, of course, a  Facebook page describing the event, which is called BuSan Night Live.  The location: on the same road as Ol’55 and a block behind Ghetto bar in KyungSung.  

Landmarks have a different feel than street names.  They are singular and isolated, lacking the connective elements that a street identity contains.  I will have to find a way to make them home: the Yeonsan Dong subway stop, the Lotte department store, the 2nd-floor restaurant with the soup bowl sign.  When I wander, I will search for new markers, chosen posts to guide my return.

Some of you have asked about my address.  

I’m on the 6th floor, half a block from the creek, across from the toilet bowl store, and around the corner from the railroad track…please, send coffee!

Across the street...

Across the street...

Around the corner...

 

 

 

Elevator to the 6th floor...

Front door!

Life in Korea: 10 things to master while living in Korea

If you've just discovered Chris in South Korea or you're new to Korea, welcome. 'Life in Korea' posts are aimed squarely at you - to my more experienced expat readers, comments are open for your wisdom and ideas.

Living in a foreign country is no piece of cake. There seems to be an endless number of things to learn or take care of, and there never seems to be enough time. When it comes to mastering the life and culture of Korea, there are 10 things that will make your life in Korea a lot easier. While these are in no particular order, all are certainly important - without further ado...

1. Hangeul - I feel a little silly in mentioning the basic Korean alphabet as being a thing to master, but it's practically a pre-requisite for getting by and getting around. If reading Korean is still give you trouble, the Korean Wiki Project has an excellent tutorial. It really can be learned in a few hours - and it opens up a lot of doors.

2. Diplomacy - if you haven't figured out the Confucian totem pole that tells you where you fit in, know that almost everyone is 'above' you. Respect the chain of command, or ignore it at your own risk. Part of diplomacy is knowing when to be gracious (even when you're crabby) and knowing when to pitch a fit. Remember that saving face is usually more important than telling the complete truth.

3. Maneuvering through a crowd, ajumma style. Whether trying to transfer from one subway line to another or just walking down a busy sidewalk, your arms and elbows can become your best friends. Simply swinging away is bad form, but gently pushing or deflecting people in your path often works better in crowds than 잠깐만요 (jam-ggan-man-yo, or 'excuse me').

4. Getting help / attention - whether you need a waiter or help finding your size, a quick 여기요! (literally 'here!') will get the right person's attention. If in a nicer restaurant, making eye contact and smiling works well too.

5. The online shopping game. Although most things you'll want or need can be found in Seoul, finding English-language books or some foreign items can be more difficult outside of a large city. GMarket is the biggest local website and has an English-language page, although quite a few suppliers from eBay and Amazon will also ship to South Korea. The craigslist for Seoul / Korea is a decent size and growing every month. It's also the place to find fellow foreigners having their 'leaving Korea - MUST SELL!' sales.

6. Handling spicy food - for some people this isn't a challenge; for others, kimchi and sundae are just too spicy to handle. Remember there is a balance between spicy and bland, then alternate between them. Your taste buds do get used to the spiciness after awhile. Remember to challenge your tastebuds before returning to the rice or milder dishes.

7. Handling alcohol - the locals might put back five soju shots in 15 minutes, but that doesn't mean you have to. As early as your first week in Korea you'll be asked if you like to drink or whether you like soju. Unless you're not a lightweight in the alcohol department, pace yourself - or convince the asker that you don't drink. They may not understand, but they'll usually respect your wish if conveyed through the ubiquitous 'X' with your hands.

8. Public transportation - the Seoul subway system continually grows, and it's easier to reach more destinations than ever before. The city bus system might still be confusing to some, but it's getting more manageable than before thanks to a larger supply of English-language route maps. The best way to master public transportation is to take it as often as possible - learning the geography of your city or area will help a lot as well. Meander, when you have the time. If traveling across the country, learning some basics about expressways and train lines will help you understand how long it'll take to reach your destination.

9. 'One more thing'. In many professional situations, it seems there's usually 'something else' that needs to be done - can you do it? It's hard to say no, and it's probably not the sort of thing you're particularly excited about doing. Whether it's last-minute planning, changed expectations, expect (but don't necessarily volunteer for!) that 'one more thing'.

10. Konglish - for better or worse, word order and correct word choice sometimes flies out your mouth - even while conversing with other native English speakers. While it may not be bad as these photographic examples, it's alright for the most part. Don't try mastering it yourself - instead, be patient when trying to figure out what they're saying.

You've read 10, and you get the last one free of charge:

11. Relaxing / having fun. Even for the most experienced expats, life in Korea can still be stressful. Find a way to release the tension outside of work. This writer finds travel to be a great relaxer; others find jimjilbang (read this article on a jimjilbang if you don't know what it is) to be great. Still others join a dart league or other community to let off steam. While drinking and bar-hopping might be fun occasionally, please don't let that be the main source of your relaxing.

Experienced readers: any additions to the list? What really needs to be mastered to enjoy life in Korea?

Creative Commons License © Chris Backe - 2010

This post was originally published on my blog, Chris in South Korea. If you are reading this on another website and there is no linkback or credit given, you are reading an UNAUTHORIZED FEED.

 

SATURDAY NIGHT - VINYL - ADULT ENTERTAINMENT vol. I: SPACE INVADERS!

Remember how much fun that Halloween party was?


You danced like it didn't matter even though you were barefoot and there was glass all over the ground, because that's what you do when you're having fun ... you just pick it out later like a champ.


... then you should thank these guys ...





Remember how much fun that soul party was?


You have the same boys to thank ....



and you really should thank them.

TOMORROW NIGHT
VINYL UNDERGROUND
DRESS UP FOLKS!



Ps. Ruby is the official photographer of the night.
Come say hi

Back in Ameriikkka

 -- painting by East LA's Jose Ramirez

So far, it's been over three months that I've been back in Los Angeles, California, USA.
No girlfriend, or even prospects to speak of.  I've been very hermit-like, trying to finish editing my book.
I lived in Asia for thirteen years and five months.

So far...

My Cadillac car is still NOT registered even though I paid for the smog check and mailed in my reg fees
long before the due date.  It appears that DMV hours have been cut -- to save money -- workers
there are pissed -- American pissed, not British pissed -- cuz they earn less and no one is in a hurry to
rush anything.  They told me it will be at least TWO weeks till my reg tags are mailed to me.

It was decided last month that 38 public schools will be run entirely by private funds, because the CA
School Board is bankrupt?  If California were a country, it would be the 8th largest economy in the
world.  But California can't afford to keep schools open or keep regular motor vehicle department
hours.

Oh yeah, that food poisoning debacle I had in early February -- the bill is over $1300
Thirteen hundred dollars!  What did they do?  I was on a bed in the hallway of the hospital
for a couple hours.  I got an IV drip and a sedative.  The asked me a lot of questions.  In fact,
many different doctors and nurses had me explain my condition to them, and then I'd never see
them again.  A nurse or doctor would come over and talk to me, and then never return.
Another would come and asked the same questions.  They were all nice, but it got really annoying.
 
They tested my blood and urine -- I never saw the results.  I have no health insurance.  If I get sick
or injured, I'm fucked.  I'll be in debt forever.  Or possibly left untreated.  California Dreaming.  "I wish
I had health care!"  That's California's biggest dream.

We're waiting to hear if the Rest's Insurance Company will cover my hospital expenses.
I kind of hope they refuse so I can have the lawyer my mother works for give them a call
and sue for 10,000 dollars.  That is, the hospital costs  PLUS pain and suffering -- for the
week of work that I lost and the pain and suffering I endured for an entire week.  I was
willing to eat the pain and just ask for my hospital bill covered.  But not any more!!!!

That's what America has driven me to.  It's made me like everybody else in California. 
Everybody wants to be a millionaire in America. Every woman wants to marry a millionare
, get knocked up by a millionaire -- they have TV shows about it.  Popular TV shows.  Being
a multi-millionaire, or even wanting to be one has got to be the most socially irresponsible
thing a person can do.  "We're trying to have a society here!"  -- George Castanza.

Everybody buys tickets when the California Lottery gets up to several million.  I remember when
they started the California Lottery in the 80's under Nazi Pete Wilson -- 'Part of the proceeds goes to
help the public schools!'  That was their TAG LINE when the lottery bill was put on the ballot.  Really? 
Gambling revenue?  That's how CA is paying for it's public schools?  Obviously, the schools are
coming up short.  In January they announced NO NEW HIRINGS at LA UNIFIED.  Sorry, college
grauduates, it's private schools, or Starbucks.

And in a high school in Mississippi near the Alabama border, in a county that was once under fire
for having bible classes taught in public schools, an 18 year old high school senior wanted to take
HER girlfriend to the prom.  They spoke with the girl's father, who is tolerant of his daughter's life style
and they contacted the ACLU who informed the girls that were totally within their rights to attend the
prom together, and for one of the two young women to wear a tuxedo, which they planned on doing. 

The school decided -- No 2010 prom.  Needless to say, the girls are now hated in their high school.

I can't wait till my book sells enough copies that I can buy a house in Canada or in the Philippines, or both
spend the winter in the PI and seven months a year in Canada.  I can always visit the USA.  That's what
I've been doing for the last 13 years.  It's worked out fine.

God Bless America!  She sure needs it.

          
                 front cover                                              back cover

The Illusion of Democracy in South Korea

When compared to its northern brethren, South Korea seems to be the epitome of democracy. However, simply being better than a dictatorship does not mean South Korea is without its freedom flaws. Under the Lee Myung Bak adminstration many groups have protested that democratic rights, particularly freedom of speech have been curtailed. When the economy first nose dived, the Korean blogger Minerva was arrested for criticizing government fiscal policy. Most recently, writers are protesting because under new legislature, artists who are critical of the government receive reduced subsidies from the government.  The Korea Times reports in "Writers to Protest for Freedom of Speech" the actions organized writers are taking to protest this move.

I'm a little torn on this. On one hand, the government doesn't have to subsidize the arts at all...in less of course they want them to seriously flourish without the more dire starving artist syndromes. On the other hand, discriminatory funding in this manner does seem to be rather anti-democratic particularly because the rationale for it is that these groups have engaged in "illegal protests." Illegal in Korea doesn't mean violent, looting, or disruptive, it simply means they were unable to get a government permit for peaceful protests. And of course, the government rarely provides such permits for groups wanting to protest government policy vocally. 

It's frustrating. I wish I could discuss politics with my Korean co-workers because I would love to see opinions on the issues that aren't from my fellow expats but none of them have the English skills to have an intensive discourse about anything other than the weather or what I did this weekend.

울산 Ulsan

5 Sep 2009, Wanting to enjoy the beautiful, sunny summer weather before it desolves into autumn, I head to 울산 Ulsan to explore a pine forest, walk along a little beach on the Sea of Japan, and wander through a green park.

Turning my box into a home

I finally got a table.

It's in the contract: teachers will be provided with the basic necessities, which includes a bed, refrigerator, television (a necessity?), a microwave, and a table. But, when I came to Busan on March 1, one thing was noticeably absent. I can understand, I suppose; this apartment is the size of the bedroom I use to occupy in New Jersey. Could a table possibly fit in here?

It can. And, even better: it has made this box into a home.

Cleaning helped as well. Tonight was the first night in a while I voluntarily kept low key. Once the nice men from the local furniture store dropped off my table and two chairs at around 7:30 p.m., I set to picking up the place. Piles of papers found homes either in drawers or the garbage. Shirts that had hung lifelessly to one side of the bed returned to hangers in the closet. With Enigma's "The Cross of Changes" as the soundtrack, I cleaned dishes and hung photos of family, friends and my trips through New York State by bike and Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area by foot on the walls. And even though some things are still missing (a proper coat hook, a hamper for my dirty clothes, a screw driver to put together the lime green shelf the school also just bought for me), I actually don't feel like I am trapped in this box anymore.

Will it last? Who knows? For now, I am looking forward to going to sleep shortly in my apartment. My home, for now.

Last night, I had my first experience drinking and socializing with my Korean co-teachers. More on that later. But, it involves singing, fried chicken, copious amounts of beer and octopus brains. All in good fun. Let's just say I woke up this morning feeling none the worse for wear. Perhaps that could not be said for a lot of my co-teachers, however. Further details in a future post.

Oh, and photos. Eventually. But, not of that, I forgot my camera.

—John Dunphy

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