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Vietnamese Beef Noodles (Diệu Hiền Quận)

Phở, otherwise known as Vietnamese beef noodle soup, is one of the few things I really crave for in Korea. Australia has a healthy Vietnamese community in the larger cities, facilitating convenient and tasty phở access after any long night out. The dish is also popular in Korea (called ssalguksu), available at generic chain restaurants like Phở bay, Czen Phở and Phở Hoa. But chain store phở in Korea is a rather disappointing affair of low grade noodles, overcooked beef brisket, absence of herbs and instant soup powder boiled with bones overnight. It wouldn't be so bad if it wasn't overpriced at W8,000 per bowl, because equally good W4,000 galbitang is available at any local kimbapcheonguk.

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A while ago, I found a review for the Quan Vietnam restaurant in Ansan on ZenKimchi Dining. Ansan is outside of Seoul and has a large multicultural community, kind of like Itaewon, but without the trendy bars. It's 45 minutes south of Sadang if you take the subway on Line 4. So that adds up to about 1 and a half hours of travelling just for a bowl of noodles.

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On ZenKimchi, it's listed as the Quan Vietnam restaurant, although I think the real name is Diệu Hiền Quận. Heather and I found it after a bit of searching.

To find the restaurant, take the blue subway line to Ansan station and go out exit 1. Go down the underpass to end up on the other side of the road, and slightly to your left you'll be able to walk down a street perpendicular to the main road, with lots of cell phone shops and multicultural restaurants. Around 50 metres down this street, there's the first street to the left. The restaurant is a few shops down and on the right of this street.

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Joe from ZenKimchi usually knows what he's talking about with food in general, so I was bristling with anticipation. Good restaurants are plentiful in Korea, but there's not a lot of authentic foreign food available at grad student prices.

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The place is a simple diner, with maps used as decorations and the odd photo of Vietnam. We started with some Saigon beer, after ordering from the well-worn menu. The lady who first served us didn't speak English or Korean, and even seemed a little bothered that she had to fetch another waiter who could speak a little Korean.
Phở
shops in Australia are well known for their lacklustre service, but great noodles. So I knew it was a good sign.

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And yes, when the noodles arrived, they looked and smelled the way they should. Note the herbs on top and the sliced beef balls, which are not available at other places. I've probably eaten phở more than 200 times, and I noticed that the shade of the soup was different from the regular stuff we get in Seoul.

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Suffice to say, the trip was worth it. The soup was flavoured authentically, the noodles were fresh and soft, and the beef flank was rare. It's these little things that all add up to make a real bowl of noodles that even my hardened Vietnamese phở friends, Anthony and John, would grunt approvingly at.

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On the side we had some fried spring rolls. These are called by different names, depending on which country you come from. Although they had some dark bits, where the filling had leaked, they were excellent. I'd come all the way down here again just for these. Heather was also impressed.

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On our way back to the subway station, we had a walk around the street for a while. There are a lot of things for sale down here, that can't be found in Seoul. In the photo above is frozen Durian, called sầu riêng in Vietnamese. It has a very distinctive odour and some people love it, while others hate it. I heard that it grows in trees like coconuts, and falling durians can be quite deadly.
That sounds like an idea for a new Discovery Channel series: Deadly Food.

Anyway, if you really like phở, head down to the Diệu Hiền Quận in Ansan someday.

Lotte Giants

3 May 2009, I spend my Sunday afternoon enjoying my first game of Korean Baseball.

Lijiang Baba Recipe

This recipe comes from an early morning stroll around the town of Lijiang in Yunnan. Sarah and I had risen early (and in my case reluctantly) in order to savour some of the charms of the old town before the crowds hit and try to get some breakfast while we were at it. Whilst out and about, we came across this perfect example of Lijiang street food.

Lijiang baba consists of a soft chewy flat bread, egg and spring onions, sometimes eaten with a couple of tart and spicy chili sauces. It remains one of the most memorable breakfasts I’ve ever eaten, and one I was determined to recreate.

After several attempts, this is what we came up with:

Lijiang Baba (makes 2 flat breads )

Ingredients

100g plain white flour
1 teaspoon fast acting dry yeast (can be substituted with proofed, normal dry yeast)
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 teaspoon salt
75ml lukewarm milk
chopped spring onions
2 eggs

Directions

1. Sieve flour into a mixing bowl, then add the yeast, sugar, half the vegetable oil and half the salt. Combine, then mix through the warm milk until the dough comes together in a soft sticky ball.

2. Knead dough on a flour-dusted surface until it attains a soft, elastic consistency. Place in a bowl and cover with a clean teacloth, then set aside in a warm place for 20 mins (or until it rises to roughly twice the size.)

3. When risen, halve the dough and roll each section into 1/4 cm thick discs roughly the same size as your frying pan.

4. To cook, heat the remaining oil in the frying pan on a medium high heat. When hot, place one of the discs in the pan. As it cooks, large bubbles will form in the dough. When the bubbles cover most of the uncooked side, flip it over so it cooks on the reverse side. Quickly crack an egg onto the surface of the dough, break the yolk then sprinkle with chopped spring onions and a pinch of salt. Once the egg turns opaque fold the pancake in half like a calzone and press down to finish cooking.

5. Remove from the pan, halve then eat!

The Kafkaesque Korean Beauty Trends of 2009

( Source: Unknown )

Confused about all the new buzzwords used to describe Koreans’ bodies these days? Here’s my translation of an article that gives a quick guide.

The author implies that most of them arose organically from the public’s interest in certain actors in Korean dramas, but of course it’s largely companies and the media that are constantly trying to create new consumer trends (read: new reasons for people to feel dissatisfied with themselves). Yet while most of these have no basis in reality, are essentially useless, and/or are so contrived as to be quickly forgotten or ignored, some do stick.

Of those that do though, if they have some English in them then it often makes them more interesting from a sociological standpoint. For whether by accident, mistranslation or design, they both reflect the way the term is already usually misused in Korean and further influence they way in which related English-language popular culture gets filtered into its Korean counterpart.

A good example from this article would be chongsoon-glaemor (청순글래머), or “Innocent Glamor,” which at first glance doesn’t seem all that strange: in her television commercials for instance, the ice-skater Kim Yuna (김연아) below manages to project an innocent image while having a seemingly glamorous lifestyle (I wonder if she’ll find the former stifling as she grows older however, like actress Moon Geun-young?). But it emerges that “sexy” would be a much better translation of the English word “glamor(ous),” and although I’m sure readers are well aware of the number of ways  in which women are presented as pure and innocent but somehow also lustful in Western popular culture, and effectively are in Korean, there are still problems with assuming that that is what the term means, as the word “sexy” isn’t construed quite the same way here. Instead, we seem to be left with an obscure term for Korean women that look more virginal than normal(?), but yet still do the mechanical “sexy dances” virtually required of them on Korean talk shows.

Anybody with more familiarity with the term and/or the actress Shin Se-kyung that supposedly spawned it, please feel free to correct me on my interpretation: after all, this is the first time I’ve looked at its origins, and just based on one article at that. But with the proviso that the next means I may be cherry-picking the facts to suit my own views, it does still seem very consistent with the Korean media’s overall trend towards discouraging or outright banning of assertive displays of women’s sexuality, i.e. genuinely sexy behavior.

꿀벅지·미중년·꽃남…2009년 연예계 뷰티 트렌드는? 2009-12-31 by 두정아

올해 연예계 트렌드를 이끈 핫 키워드는 무엇일까. 꽃남과 미중년, 꿀벅지, 베이비페이스, 청순글래머 등 어느 해보다 개성있고 다양한 트렌드가 공존했던 한 해였다.

드라마 ‘꽃보다 남자’로 ‘꽃남’이라는 단어가 사람들 입에 오르내렸고, ‘내조의 여왕’의 윤상현은 ‘미중년’이라는 찬사를 받으며 남성들의 뷰티 열풍을 이끌었으며 그룹 에프터스쿨 멤버 유이의 매끈한 허벅지를 일컫는 ‘꿀벅지’와 배우 신세경의 ‘청순글래머’ 등은 여심을 자극하며 바디 열풍을 일으켰다. 여전한 ‘V라인’ 강세 속에 동안(童顔) 열풍 또한 이어져 ‘베이비페이스’라는 단어가 자주 회자됐다.

What were the hot keywords that led trends in the world of entertainment in 2009?

With kkotnam (Flower Man) and mijoongnam (Beautiful Middle-aged Man), ggoolbokji (Honey Thighs), babyface and chongsoon-glaemor (Innocent Glamor) emerging, there were many very distinct trends compared to most years.

From the drama Boys Over Flowers the term “Flower Man” was on everyone’s lips; from Queen of Housewives the actor Yoon Sang-hyu received a lot of praise for his looks, spawning the word “Beautiful Middle-aged Man” and a strong following among men wanting to emulate him ; and women were similarly interested in the After School member UEE’s smooth and velvety thighs known as “Honey Thighs” and actress Shin Se-kyung’s “Innocent Glamor.” Finally, in addition to the eternal “V-line,” a strong interest in youthful faces has been shown by the new word “Babyface” that is often talked about.

( Source: Unknown )

‘꽃남’·’미중년’, 남성 뷰티(美) 열풍

KBS 드라마 ‘꽃보다 남자’ 신드롬에 힘입어, MBC 드라마 ‘내조의 여왕’ 태봉이 (윤상현 분)가 일으킨 ‘미중년’ 열풍까지 남성들의 뷰티 열풍이 어느 해보다 뜨거웠다. 이를 계기로 남자도 외모 관리를 해야 한다는 인식이 공유되기도 했다.

거친 남성다움보다는 부드럽고 세련된 귀족적인 이미지를 선호하는 분위기로 바뀌며 성형외과나 피부과를 적극적으로 찾는 남성들도 크게 증가했다.

경제 성장을 이루던 90년대에 사회생활을 시작한 현재 30대 후반부터 40대 초반의 중년들은 전통적인 부모 세대와 달리 중년이 돼서도 문화와 여가를 즐기고 자신을 가꾸는 노력에 적극적이기 때문이라는 해석이다.

Combined, the flower man syndrome caused by the KBS Drama Boys Over Flowers and the beautiful middle-aged man craze caused by the character Tae Bong-ee in Queen of Housewives have led to men taking a great interest in their bodies. This is how the notion that men, like women, also have to take care of their bodies and appearance has become accepted wisdom.

In turn, as the preferred image of Korean masculinity has become softer and more polished, refined and noble, cosmetic surgery and skincare clinics are reporting a great upsurge in interest from men.

One additional reason for this is that even though men that grew up and entered the workforce in the 1990s are now in their late-30s and early-40s, they are very different to their parents’ generation, and choose to enjoy culture and their free time more, which includes taking a greater interest in themselves.

‘꿀벅지’ ‘소시지룩’ ‘청순글래머’ 바디 열풍 선도

올 한해 주목할 트렌드는 바디 열풍이다. 소녀시대의 지(GEE) 열풍과 함께 유행한 일명 ‘소·시·지(Gee)룩’. 몸매가 고스란히 드러나는 초절정 스키니진에 타이트한 티셔츠를 입은 여성들이 패션을 주도하면서 여성들의 S라인 욕구는 상승했다.

뒤이어 그룹 애프터스쿨 유이의 건강미 넘치는 탄탄한 허벅지가 주목을 받으면서 꿀이 발린 듯한 매력적인 허벅지라는 뜻의 ‘꿀벅지’라는 신조어까지 탄생했다.

또한 요즘 주가를 올리고 있는 단어는 ‘청순글래머’. MBC 시트콤 ‘지붕 뚫고 하이킥’ 출연하고 있는 신세경은 청순한 매력과 섹시한 관능미를 동시에 지니고 있어 ‘청순 글래머’의 대명사로 불린다. ‘포스트 김혜수’로 주목받으며 휴대전화, 화장품 광고 모델 자리를 꿰차는 등 그 인기를 입증하고 있다.

이에 대해 그랜드성형외과 유상욱 원장은 “과거 여자 톱스타들의 상징이 ‘화장품 모델’이었다면 2009년은 이효리, 신민아, 송혜교, 손담비 등 청바지 모델로 그 중심이 바뀌었다”며 “이 같은 변화는 요즘 대중들의 관심이 바디로 옮겨지고 있다는 증거”라고 설명했다.

2009 was a real year of body trends. First, there was the very popular so called “Sausage Look” of Girls’ Generation. Hiding nothing, the ensuing fashion of wearing extremely skinny jeans and tight t-shirts among women has sparked an intense interest by women in their S-lines.

Next, as a lot of interest in After School member UEE’s firm, smooth and very healthy-looking thighs emerged, the new word “Honey Thighs” was coined to describe thighs like them.

Another word that’s stock is rising is “Innocent Glamor.” This comes from the actress Shin Se-kyung that appeared in the MBC sitcom High Kick Through The Roof, described as the icon for women who combine a pure and innocent image with sex appeal. Considered a second Kim Hye-su also, because of her popularity she regularly appears in cellphone and cosmetics commercials.

According to “Grand Cosmetic Surgery Clinic” owner Yu Sang-ok, “in the past the symbol of top female stars was the cosmetic model, but in 2009 women like Lee Hyori, Shin Min-ah, Song Hye-gyo and Son Dam-bi have been mostly modeling jeans instead,” and “this is proof that the focus of people’s attention has moved to star’s bodies now.”

( Source: Naver )

‘V라인’ 강세, ‘베이비페이스’가 위협

올해도 ‘V라인’ 강세는 여전했다. 뭐니뭐니해도 ‘동안’, ‘V라인’, ‘작은 얼굴’은 사람들이 가장 선호하는 이미지이기 때문이다. 갸름하고 부드러운 V라인은 첫인상부터 편안하고 친근한 장점도 있다.

MBC 드라마 ‘선덕여왕’ 미실 역의 고현정은 소름끼치는 연기와 더불어 나이를 가늠할 수 없는 ‘베이비페이스’로 주목을 받았다. 투명한 피부는 물론, 볼륨감이 그대로 살아있는 생기있는 얼굴은 아기 피부 같다는 찬사를 받았다.

‘베이비페이스’는 ‘어려보이면서 입체적인 얼굴’을 말한다. 그 특징은 얼굴 옆이 아닌 앞쪽으로 볼륨감이 살아있는 얼굴로 콧등의 높이와 균형을 이루는 부드러운 곡선 모양의 탐스러운 이마 그리고 갸름하고 조금은 짧은 듯한 턱 선이 생명이다. 이러한 ‘베이비 페이스’의 열풍은 2010년에도 지속될 것으로 전망된다.

Last year, the emphasis on the V-line remained unchanged. After all, the preferred image is to have a dongan “Youthful face [for one's age],” V-line, or jakkun-olgool “small face.” And if you have a long, slender face with a V-line, people’s first impression of you will be softer and friendlier.

Hence the interest in the “Babyface” of actress Ko Hyeon-jeong, who played the character Lady Mishil in the MBC drama Queen Seon Duk, and whose acting was so good that she gave viewers goose pimples. With clear skin and glowing, firm cheeks, she has received a lot of praise for having a face as good as a baby’s.

But a babyface has been described as a “solid, 3D face.” In particular, it’s not just the volume of the cheeks on the side but also the balance with the bridge of the nose, the softness of the curves and the desirability of the forehead that make it look youthful. They look set to remain popular in 2010. (end)

( Source: Naver )

Like I said in an earlier post, I was embarrassed at not realizing how sexist the term Honey Thighs was when I first heard the term, but I doubt I would have if they’d been described like that instead. And continuing with the theme of  sexual discrimination, I was surprised not to see “Chocolate Abs” for men also; unlike the commercial that spawned it, perhaps the term itself is more 2010 vintage?

Regardless, please let me know if you can think of any others, and especially if you have alternative explanations for where any of the above ones came from!

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Filed under: Korean Media, Korean Men's Body Images, Korean Sexism, Korean Sexuality, Korean Women's Body Images Tagged: After School, Babyface, 내조의 여왕, 미중년, 베이비페이스, 고현정, 김연아, 꽃남, 꿀벅지, Girls' Generation, Honey Thighs, Innocent Glamor, 선덕여왕, 소녀시대, 유이, 청순글래머, Kim Yuna, Ko Hyeon-jeong, Pure Glamor, Queen of Housewives, Queen Seon Duk, Shin Se-kyung, UEE

On life in Korea and being a nomad teacher

"The time has come," the Walrus said,
"To talk of many things:
Of shoes--and ships--and sealing-wax--
Of cabbages--and kings--
And why the sea is boiling hot--
And whether pigs have wings."

Source: "The Walrus and the Carpenter", by Lewis Carroll (text retrieved from http://www.jabberwocky.com/carroll/walrus.html).

Define nomad: a member of a people who have no permanent home; a person who moves seasonally in search of resources; a wanderer.

Being an English teacher in South Korea is far from a 'stable' or 'normal' lifestyle. Much like the life of an ambassador or an embassy worker, one never quite knows what to expect at any given time. With little or no forewarning you may find yourself in the same part of town as a protest against the Korean government, a festival you knew nothing about, or be reminded everyday that you are not a local. As a result, a teachers life is inherently unstable - not necessarily a life lived dangerously, but not one you should not expect stability from.

Don't get me wrong - with some effort, we can create stability, put down roots, and avoid the nomad distinction. It helps if you are looking to call Korea home for some years to come, or have a Korean spouse with the accompanying family. Put the key money down and get into an apartment of your own choosing instead of the one given you by your school. Get involved in the community beyond English teachers - I'm continually amazed at the size and breadth of the communities available to longer-term foreigners.

If you're just arriving in Korea, a year may sound like a long time at one apartment or one job - but your time at a given school doesn't always last the whole year. Hagwons close or go out of business, new principals turn decent schools into nightmares, and so on. If crap hits the fan, going nomad allows you to get out without feeling forced into any given arrangement. While in your home country you have the benefit of friends, family, and a language you're far more familiar with - here in Korea you have only the first.

This is not meant to be a condemnation of Korea. While the government has its faults (like every other government in the world), it has more to do with the practices of local businesses, along with the lack of recourses available to waygukin like us. The point is to be aware, be mobile, and be cognitive; if that sounds like too much thought or effort, reconsider your life as an expat.

The reward of this thought - and forethought - can be a life of continuous growth. If followed, you're unlikely to find yourself 'stuck' or without any idea of what to do next.

So how to enjoy life in Korea, while accepting the reality that you're a nomad?
  • Be ready to move, at any time, with little or no notice. This sounds harsh, but this prevents you from feeling too 'attached' to the status quo. How many pairs of shoes do you need anyway? This does not mean living out of boxes - rather, consider what you really need in life. The jobs that provide furnished apartments make having to haul around a mattress and desk not required. If you're that attached to your furniture, hiring a moving van isn't incredibly difficult.
  • Gradually work towards giving away or selling unneeded things. The material things in life are wonderful, but really, how many sweaters or jackets do you need? The 'one-year rule' comes into effect here, and just not just with clothing. Don't forget about books, electronic stuff, furniture, dishes, and decorations. The local craigslist is an excellent place to sell stuff.
  • Always be improving - whether it's your network of people, your relationships, or your skills, never be in a place where you're not growing. Don't settle on just knowing your friends at your favorite bar - get out and expand your social horizons.
  • Keep some 'oh crap' money saved up - a smart idea no matter where you are in life.
  • Appreciate the little things - with fewer material things getting in the way, seeing them should be easier.
  • Consider the rewards of your effort - later on in life, you'll have a repertoire of experiences, friends, and cultures unlike almost anyone else around you.
Creative Commons License © Chris Backe - 2010

This post was originally published on my blog, Chris in South Korea. If you are reading this on another website and there is no linkback or credit given, you are reading an UNAUTHORIZED FEED.

 

5 Centimeter Bangs

While browsing the Korea Times this morning, I came across this article on laws and rules governing the length of student's hair. In America, there is the occasional controversy over boys having "girlishly" long hair at school but this was governing every student. Apparently, such guidelines are defended because they "keep its students away from entertainment outlets for adults in its vicinity by making them easily recognizable as students." That means 5 centimeter bangs for girls (can that be right?) and forced trims if your hair doesn't meet requirements.

The counterargument: cutting student's hair without their consent is a human rights issue. And I agree. It might not be as bad as say, killing/jailing/torturing people for expressing opinions against Dear Leader in North Korea but it is most certainly a violation of the student's rights. The counterargument is weak at best; adult venues should be carding minors they believe to be inappropriately trying to gaining entrance. Not to mention the fact that most of these students seem to have zero free time to get into such shenanigans. If they aren't in school, hagwon, taekwondo, piano lessons or studying they are helping out their family. The little free time available gets devoted to the television, computer or gaming systems.

I will have to ask my co-teacher what she thinks about hair guidelines as she is both a parent and a teacher.

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