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Male Grocery Shopping

This is what happens when I go grocery shopping:



Not the normal stuff you find at Home Plus, E-Mart or Mega Mart here in Korea.  Gotta love the base commissary for various forms of fat pills.  For the record, I haven't eaten a Twinkie in years.

Two of the products pictured are pretty amazing.  The "Bagelfuls" already have cream cheese inside the bagel thing.  The "Uncrustables" already have peanut butter and jelly inside the bread.  Like I said, amazing.  These products remind me of "Goober," the peanut butter and jelly - wait for it - that are in the same jar.  You never know when you'll be sitting around the house hungry.  Man, I could use a sandwich but I only have the energy to open one jar.  I ain't got time to be opening two jars.  Bam!  Peanut butter and jelly in one jar.

I can't claim this one.  For full details, youtube Brian Regan and peanut butter and jelly.  Pretty funny stuff.

CJ loves those Little Debbie brownies.  He'll eat the whole box if we let him.  If you want to hear a funny story and have ready access to a Cruz, ask them about the Little Debbie brownies and the "Greedy B."  Leo, if you're reading this, I have to tell you that we still get a kick out of that story.  Until next time -- C2

The Name Game

Brian in Jeollanam-Do wrote an interesting post today about how more Koreans are changing their names. On a sort of related note:

I fail at memorizing my kids names. I really do. I have seating charts, I try to only address people using their names. I study the seating charts, I make notes about different students...and yet the Korean names seem to go in one ear and out the other. I have a few down in every class...and I know every single kid's name who has an English name (care of their English hagwon or from Winter Camp). To be fair, I do have many students (302 this semester) that I only see twice a week but lots of teachers have more students that they see even less.

Here's my view on making your students use English names: teacher's shouldn't just arbitrarily give out English names or even let students just pick random English words for names (that's when you end up with Candy, Silver, Bunny, Sponge Bob and all sorts of strange things). However, I remember my first Latin class in high school and on the first day, the teacher distributed a list of common Roman names, helped us with pronunciation and then had us all choose a Roman name.  That Roman name was the only way she addressed us in class (and how we addressed each other) and what we wrote on our assignments. It helped us get down the basic phonetic differences between English and Latin a bit faster and above all, it was fun. In case you were wondering, Cytherea was my Latin name...something I remember despite only taking one year of Latin 10 years ago.

The conflict: learning English names is as hard for your co-teacher as Korean ones are for the native teacher. At least, that's what co-teachers have told me. It makes sense, unless you are fluent or have a lot of experience with English names they would be difficult to remember, like a giant set of vocabulary words. My current co-teacher had zero desire to spend any class time on figuring out English names. I suppose I'll save it for the kids who decide (or whose parents decide for them) to come to my camps during vacation. 

Signs! Signs! Everywhere Signs!


























All photos were taken in October 2009 on the islands of Luzon, PI; and Cheju Island, SKorea.
And there's one photo of a Seoul subway.






New Tricks for an Old Dog

As most of us know, our capacity for learning new languages is greatest when we are children. Studies have shown that even after three years, a certain door closes for pure language acquisition. What I know is that during my first year here in Korea I taught a daily kindergarten class, and they were little English sponges, soaking up the new words and phrases in between bouts of drawing princesses, pretending to be Spiderman, and peeing their pants.

I now teach at a two year college, where my students are mixed bag of kids who, for whatever reason, don't currently find themselves in a "real" university. Some are hopeless boneheads (like teaching driftwood), while a few others are quite bright, who are either on alternative education plans, or just happen to be poor.

All of these students are in their early to mid twenties, with the exception of the odd middle-aged one. Every year I get a crop of about thirty new students (I teach in the Hotel and Tourism English Department), and there is always one woman in her fifties (what Koreans call an "ajumma"). I've had three in three years, and none of them could speak a stitch of English.

There is one ajumma in particular who just amazes me with her utter lack of ability to pick up even a whiff of English. She's probably in her mid-50's and it must be said that she's a real sweetheart. She's super-nice. I really like her, personally. She's come to every class for over a year now. She's never been late. She sits there with her book open and tries to write down everything I say.

But... she can't say anything. I mean NOTHING. To this day, when I ask her, "Hello, how are you?" she's totally unable to reply with the requisite "I'm fine thank you." She gets a look of horror in her eyes and starts babbling and stammering in an unintelligible melange of Korean and English, just trying to repeat the question so as to understand what it is I asked her in the first place.

One full year and then some of five-days-a-week English study, and STILL no "I'm fine thank you." Kindergartners learn this in FIVE MINUTES. It's just astounding.

Why does she keep coming to school when clearly she's not improving at all? Should I sit down with her and gently tell her that it's hopeless, that she should give up, that she's clearly past the learning-a-new-language pull date and should rather spend her time gardening or learning pottery?

It is frustrating because she does bog down the class. Once it comes around to her, the gears grind to an agonizing stop. I often just skip her, but she is a tuition-paying student and deserves at least an inkling of effort on my behalf. I do try - I do - but it's really like trying to get a jello mold to speak.

To put this into perspective, for two years I taught a retarded guy who could barely communicate in KOREAN, let alone English, and HE still managed to pick up ten times more than her.

That's right. He was RETARDED.

Is it just an age thing? Do we reach a point where our brain just says "NO NEW LANGUAGE?" I'm pushing 40 and still studying Korean, and while at times I wish for my more open teenage brain that picked up Spanish so quickly, I'm still doing all right. I can sit down and talk to Korean people and generally carry on a conversation.

Yeah, we know that some people are better at learning languages than others. Like anything else, it's a knack that some folks possess to a greater degree. But is it possible to have a total language block, where no matter how much you study, you can never perform even the most basic task? I think maybe yes. I've seen it a handful of times with my students, as well with some foreigners here trying to get a handle on even the most elementary Korean. I think that sometimes the brain just refuses to go along...

Or maybe I'm just a really really shitty teacher.

Google Closes Censored Search Engine in China

Google has made good on its threat to close google.cn, the search site it
was running in China. The site's search results were censored, with searches
for terms like 'human rights' and 'Tienanmen Square Massacre' coming up empty.

The site had also been attacked multiple times by hackers, with human rights
activists' private Gmail accounts broken into by hackers within China. The Chinese
government has denied responsibility for the attacks. Google's chief legal officer says
"it seems that things are getting tighter for open expression and freedom."

Read the New York Times article:

Carol's Cooking

Not sure what I ever did to deserve someone that can cook up a storm like Carol.  Not only is her cooking incredible but its the heart that goes along with her cooking.  For example, if she finds out it's your birthday, she'll cake you.  Carrot cake, pineapple upside down cake, dump cake, angel food cake, etc.  Her recent trend is to brownie people.  See previous post.

Anyway, for my birthday she tiramisu'd me.  I know.  I'm butchering this whole grammar thing with my noun-verb usage.

Here's the last piece of my birthday tiramisu - better known as a small chunk of heavenly mascarpone, coffee and lady finger goodness.

I mean for real, who even knows how to make tiramisu?  I'm talking for real, not the urbanized recipe of:
1. Drive to Costco
2. Buy tiramisu
3. Remove lid without getting a paper cut

The other day, Carol busted out these Vietnamese style spring rolls.  They were amazing.  Peanut sauce and all.  She also cooks a couple of Mom's Filipino dishes like pancit, lumpia and caldareta.  Please don't pass this along to my Mom, but my nephew Brandon even said that Carol's beef and broccoli is better than Mom's.  Blasphemy!

The point of this blog entry wasn't to brag on Carol's cooking skills...well, actually it was.  I'm just so inspired by the heart that she puts into her cooking.  Whether it's making spaghetti for International Day at school, baked goods for the PTA fundraiser, mexican food for the Cinco de Mayo get together, cooking up a storm for the various church functions or just having some of the geo bachelors over the house, she's just so generous with her cooking.  When I was the Maintenance Officer at one of my old squadrons, Carol even cooked special meals for all of my troops - for no reason whatsoever.  The guys working the night shift really appreciated her kind gesture.  They sometimes feel like they're forgotten.  She would take turns taking requests from the various shops.  Whether it was pasta for the jet engine mechanics or pot roast for the electricians, they all seemed to like the home cooked meals.  

The other thing is this.  I've done the last minute dinner invitation thing for various Mr. Big Pants over the years.  Carol has always responded with grace in these types of situations.  She knows she can tell me to pack sand but she rarely does.  I know a lot of spouses wouldn't be so understanding about the last minute guest thing.

So the only negative to Carol's total kitchen domination is the extra poundage that girdles my loins.  Hey, I'll take it.  Thank you Carol for feeding us Cruz boys so well.  Little did I know that cute smile, curly locks and southern drawl that I married over 16 years ago would turn out to be such a maven in the kitchen.  Hate to think what you could do with a double oven.  Watch out!  Until next time -- C2

The 5 places you WON'T see on a Seoul tourist map

As a travel blogger, I make it an effort to see a wide variety of places - both on the touristy side of things as well as off the beaten path. Today is a special day of sorts - it's been two years to the day since I arrived in Korea. From the beginning, I started covering places to see in Seoul and Korea (I started blogging in late 2007, although I didn't arrive in Korea until later) - during that time I've discovered quite a few places you definitely won't see on any tourist maps.

Of the five, the first one is probably the best known among expats in Korea: Hooker Hill / Homo Hill.

Don't let the two names fool you - we're talking about two areas, within a stone's throw of each other, in the same neighborhood. The history of Hooker Hill wouldn't be complete without including Itaewon and the Yongsan Garrison - although the official histories leave out a lot of the story. After Yongsan Garrison opened in the 1970's, the area became a central place for businesses catering to the foreign soldiers. The prostitution business was one causing significant problems in the area until 2004, when the USFK began trying to clean up the area. Trying is the key word - to this day, the area still offers a number of women selling themselves under one cover or another. You're far more likely to be 'juicy bars', 'kissing rooms' and 'da bang' than out-and-out prostitution.

Yongsan red-light district



청소년 보호 구역 - the text translates to 'Youth Reserves' or 'Youth Protection District' according to Google Translate (better translations are always welcome!), but the point is to warn passers-by of a red-light district. As is fairly usual, the glass walls allow for a view - but you'll have to get closer to ask for prices. Don't bother, though - half the time they don't, er, service foreigners, and the other half of the time they'll quote you an outrageous price.


The reasons why may be self-explanatory, but the pictures are proof.

Moran Meat Market
I've blogged about this place before - while you'll see some directions to the older but respectable 'five-day' market, you won't see anything about the area where dogs and other animals are sold for consumption. It's right across the parking lot, and is easy enough to spot if you're in the area. If you're in the market to eat some dog, there are plenty of dog-meat restaurants around to satisfy your taste buds.

For some strange reason, however, eating dogs doesn't quite resonate with the average Western tourist. Think what you like, but don't try to change it by going in PETA style or trying to buy a dog to set them free.

The Gupo Market in Busan is similar in nature - find that by taking line 3 of the Busan subway to Deokcheon station. Take exit 3 to street level, turn right at the first street then left at the first street.

Yeongdeungpo / Cheongnyangni

Two more red-light districts still clinging to life. Before thinking that flashing those green (or gold) bills will somehow open doors to sexy women, understand that foreigners are generally shooed away. Those that aren't might be caught by the police (and while the bribes might be offered by the Koreans caught for the same thing, you won't get that opportunity) Walk by, look around if you like, and move on.

Any bosintang (boshintang) restaurant

In case the Moran Meat Market wasn't enough for you, most bosintang (보신탕) restaurants still have an old-fashioned feel to them. The few that weren't put out of business before the 1988 Summer Olympics are still hanging on in the older non-renovated parts of the city. Expect them to be busiest during malbok, the last of Korea's three summer 'dog days'. It's when the heat will make you want for stamina. For those traveling with a queasy stomach, other foods are available; don't be too surprised if a dog's leg is offered your way by another patron. If looking to avoid eating Fido, pass on gaejangguk (dog meat soup) gaesuyuk (boiled dog meat), gaesoju (a drink with dog meat and herbal ingredients), and gaegogi (literally, dog meat) as well.

Readers - any favorite Korean spots that you won't find in any tourist brochures? Comments are open!

Creative Commons License © Chris Backe - 2010

This post was originally published on my blog, Chris in South Korea. If you are reading this on another website and there is no linkback or credit given, you are reading an UNAUTHORIZED FEED.

 

I got a compass in my heart

First we ate...



... then there was an appearance by the "dirty uncle" ...


... followed by some drunken sailors ...


... and finally it was time to go...


....and listen to listen to him.


The first time I saw him play I was alone at a bar.
My friends had run off in search of faster tunes while I stayed behind and fell in love with lyrics. He sings songs that evoke old memories, intimate little stories that draw you in and remind you of all the stories you have locked away.



... and when he sings everyone seems to stand a little closer ...



.... smile a little longer ....


.. hug their friends a little longer...







... and go out and maybe even make some new ones ...













..

Cheongdo Bullfighting Festival


Jason and I with the Police


Bright and early on Saturday, Sandra, Jason, Maiko, Jenn and I left Jangsan to head towards Busan Station for another MeetUp. This time we were heading out to Cheongdo, a small town located between Busan and Daegu. As we got on the train, we learned that we didn't have seats, so four of us piled into a small Noraebang (Karaoke). It was crazy. I've never done Noraebang at 9:00am, let alone on a train. Great start to the day! I upload video of that at a later date.

Anyways, we arrived in Cheongdo and got shuffled around until we finally found out where we were going and got the the Festival. It cost 5,000Wan per person, rumours were that those born in the year of the Ox got in free, but they were indeed just rumours as numerous signs pointed out at the ticket booth. The festival had several booths selling food, snacks, traditional activities and lots of persimmon products. Persimmon's are apparently a famous product of the area.


Start of the match


We piled into the stadium and started watching the bulls. It was an interesting sight, the stadium was not full, but well attended by a handful of foreigners and a lot of old Korean men. It definitely is not an event that the younger generations go out to. Essentially two bulls are brought out (usually they are in the same weight class), and the owners release them and the bulls head put, head lock, head jab, and head wrestle until one of the bulls, the loser, decides to run away. These matches can last from a few seconds up to about 40 minutes. We saw 5 or 6 matches, which were all entertaining, but I starting to feel bad for the animals. By the end of the match they had blood running down their heads, and some had jab marks in their necks. However the days events clearly didn't change our views as we ended up having beef soup for dinner back in Busan.


Bullfighting



The Stadium


After watching we met up with some others (Becca and some of her friends) for lunch, and then went to play some traditional games which was fun. Some people made pottery as well. It was an enjoyable event, not sure if I would go again, but it was culturally interesting to witness.


It wouldn't be a true Korean event without strange crossdressers


It will be interesting to see the future of the event, as it looks like younger generations have no interest in it at all. Apparently during the warmer months, the city of JinJu also has weekly bullfighting matches in case I get the urge to watch another match before I go home.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8vNc8FO0LYQ


Noraebang...on a train...at 9:00am!!



Making rice cake..the traditional way



Hellboy mascot?

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