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What students need to learn

This T-shirt appears to list the basics of what any responsible student should know.


In Which Pollution Kicks My Butt

This weekend I let pollution kick my butt. Saturday I alternated between sleeping, eating, reading and blowing my nose. I did make it out for an evening of Scrabble and cocktails at the Hemingway (I won!) but was home by midnight. Such an exciting life I lead.

Today I went into town to get groceries and to fortify myself for the Sunday Emart rush, I got a latte and picked up my coffee first, rather than as a treat for making it out alive. My favorite coffee shop is trying to kill me though. They won't sell me a pound of coffee. They won't sell me more than 100 grams of ground coffee because they are convinced that by the time I get through it all it won't be perfectly fresh. Which is true, it WILL take me an entire week or two to get through it. But even if it was a month old, I would still drink it. Stale coffee is much better than me attempting to teach without having had any coffee. Sometimes I convince them to sell me more, and promise to drink it up before it goes stale but today I didn't have the energy and settled for the paltry 100 grams. Maybe on Wednesday, when I'm all out of coffee I shall whip out my super amazing Konglish skills for the argument.

I wanted to sit in the park after all of that...but then I got a phone call at 4:02 reminding me that I was supposed to be online for a Skype discussion on Korean teaching culture at 4pm. This is what happens when I don't write things down. It was interesting but by the time I finished I was just wanted to make dinner and veg out again.  I actually had a balanced meal: scrambled eggs, bacon, red pepper slices and OJ. Not healthy per se but I got in multiple food groups!

Spaz updates from the weekend:
1. This morning, I put my brace on the wrong ankle. I stood up, realized something was funny and looked down only to go 'doh!'
2. Tripped over my own feet while attempting to walk across the apartment (no new sprains resulted though so it's a spaz win!)
3. Accidentally whacked the Cragon in the balls while trying to smack his arm to look at the crazy socks being sold on the street.  The Partial Asian and the ajumma watching couldn't stop laughing. The Cragon was less than perfectly amused. I imagine being smacked in the crotch is not a very pleasant thing. 

Neon Streets and Japanese Eats: Dining in Seomyeon

Late one evening a couple weeks ago I caught the subway to Seomyeon with Jason, Bryan and Dianna–three of the five teachers who make up my awesome American teaching posse.  Jason’s lived here six months; it was Bryan and Dianna’s second night in town. 

In the maze of people-packed, neon-lit streets, we couldn’t find the Turkish restaurant Jason hoped to lead us to, so we slipped into a smoky Japanese joint, befriended four bar stools, and feasted on plates of steaming skewers. 

Other than the beef surprise I picked out of my udon noodles, and an unfortunate head attached to my mackeral pike, the experience left me intrigued: Korea’s culinary offerings provide mystery for both the palette and the eye.

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Scroll down for two new pics from Cornell class:  Daniel and Jason, 6-year-old boys who remind me daily that patience is a teacher’s greatest tool.  (Sometimes it can be found in a Friday-night sip of soju!)


Around Korea in 5 days- Day 5 Gwangju 광주 to Busan 부산


Day 5 would be highlighted by checking out Namhae along the south coast. I had promised I would visit there. I was told it was very beautiful. It far exceeded my expectations. It would be a great place to go to in the summer and hang out in a bed and breakfast. First off that day I would stop for bike maintenance. I found a small shop. It was open but no one was around. This was in the middle of the country. The restaurant beside it called them for me and a few moments later the owner came back. He pulled up in his truck with his wife. His wife had the biggest smile I had ever seen. She never stopped smiling. It made me think about my experience as I went from city to country in Korea. The people in the country seemed happier and more relaxed. It made me think of my own life. I have spent most of my life city. Is there a way to make life in the city happier and friendly? After my oil change I got rolling. A few minutes later I came across a scarecrow festival, there were thousands of scarecrows in the fields. I stopped and took pictures, it was pretty cool. Later in the day I had some problems with my helmet camera, just as I hit the best part of the ride of the day. So I had to improvise with duct taping my small camera to my helmet. I ended up with average footage from that. It was lightly raining so I had to crack out the rain gear. I eventually headed back inland as I had spent the day riding along the south coast. I decided to go to Jinju. It was the first place I had made a motorcycle trip about in Korea. I figured it would be a good way to end the trip. After Jinju I would have about two more hours of riding, but all on roads I had travelled many times. There would be no more surprises and nothing new to see. That evening I rolled back into Busan.

It was over. It seemed so fast. I could barely remember what I had done. Luckily I had videoed a lot of it. I also planned to write about it to fill in the gaps that I missed in the video. Well I guess I did that now. It was an awesome trip1. I made it in the five days and it actually only cost me 345usd.



Around Korea in 5 days- Day 4 Sachen to Gwangju 광주

Day four ended up being the easiest day of them all. The scenery was beautiful along the coast. I hit a big park, with tons of cool beaches. I checked out a temple and a dolmen site. I ended up in Mokpo by late afternoon. I checked out a bunch of museums. There were five museums all together in a place called culture town. I had heard that Mokpo was a place with lots of Korean gangsters. My brief ride through did not confirm this. I headed back inland to Gwangju. It is a fair size city with over a million people. I was looking out for motels, when I finally stopped in the downtown area. I was hungry. As I looked for a restaurant I realized I had found the main shopping district. I also found a cheap motel. It was a good score. I walked around the shopping district and found a restaurant. The lighting in the restaurant was very bright. I realized I was road dirty. The dirt from the road was catching up. I was also getting a good tan. It always amazes me how dirt attracts itself to you when you travel. I was showering everyday and changing clothes regularly but I couldn’t escape the look of the kms accumulating up on me. It is nice to when you travel that people let that slide and still treat you well. I felt in the groove of travelling now. Too bad it was about to end the next day.

Around Korea in 5 days- Day 3 Seoul서울 to Sachen

Day three starts by leaving Seoul. Less than an hour later I am out of the city. Getting through Seoul was super easy. I start to relax now as I figure it is smooth sailing from now on. I was wrong. I am about to hit the most frustrating part of the trip. A little south of Seoul is Incheon home of Korea’s biggest airport. Incheon is part old city and a rapidly expanding. The signs are not that good. I make a couple bad turns. I then find a tourist information booth. I ask then where the highway is? They don’t know. After ten minutes of searching on the internet it ends up being the road that I am on. The road that the tourist info is on, this is the confusion that sums up this area. After that I am confronted with new roads, unfinished roads and more signs then I would ever want to see that ere blank. So many of the signs would only have the arrows on them, the rest was blank. I start to feel like I should buy a compass. I stop every 30 minutes to make sure I am heading south. I end up in a new development that is only a gray outline on my map. A few months later I saw a show the discovery channel that featured this area. It was a project by Korea to see how fast they could build a city. It worked as it was not even on my map. Most of the streets out of it were not finished. It was like coming to an end of movie set. Eventually I found my way out and slowly headed south. I was trying to head south but end up heading back inland. I Arrived in Suwon. I had never planned to go there but I had promised to do a radio interview about my trip around Korea. I needed to find a phone use. I ran across a YMCA. so I decided to try there. It was during the swine flu scare. So I had to have my temperature taken before I entered. I called the radio station and try to get a phone set up. The YMCA did not have any direct lines in so I was out of luck. I would have to the interview by cell phone which would not be as good quality for the interview. I found a quiet place in the community center and did the interview. Once I got back over the interview I got back to the task of trying to figure out my way down the west coast. I still had not eaten lunch so I stopped in a convenience store and grabbed a quick lunch. I showed the clerk my map and explained I was doing a motorcycle trip around Korea. People were always surprised by what I was doing. I ate outside. Once I finished I went back in to throw away my garbage. The clerk called me over and gave me a free bottle of a Korean sport drink. I was a nice gift and was great as it was a hot day. I finally started to make better progress down the coast. I ended up in Boryeong by dinner. It was my goal for the day. I had planned to spend the day night there, but know I was worried. I figured I should try and make some more ground. If I was going to finish my trio in the five days, so first I stopped for some bike maintenance. I then went to Pizza Hut for dinner. I was tired and just needed some carbs for the next day. I needed comfort food. I sat down and ordered. The manager came up and talked to me. I explained the trip I was doing. Then some of girls that worked there came to meet me. One girl I think thought I was famous or something. She got her friend to take a picture with me. She then gazed at me wide eyed the whole time I ate my lunch. It was bit distracting as I was trying to eat. Then when I left the whole staff of Pizza Hut came outside and said good bye, they were all waving enthusiastically as I rode off. I decided to further down the coast. I put in about 30km which ended up being a waste of time. The ride was tough as it was dark and the road was winding. My bike has terrible lights so I usually try to avoid night riding. I spent the night in a small town.


Destination: Jangam / Suraksan (Uijeongbu)



The Lady in Red and I decided to see what there was at the northern end of Seoul's line 7 subway. Although the immediate surroundings were less than impressive, an area across the street held some promise - a crab and a couple brown signs, commonly used for tourist or natural sights.

As it turns out, Jangam station is the perfect place to see Suraksan, or Mt. Surak as a Westerner might call it. Not to be confused with Seoraksan, the National Park in Gangwon-do offering a month's worth of hiking, Suraksan is an easy day trip from anywhere in Seoul.



A gorgeous mountain - and we're still across the street from it.

It goes without saying that every mountain has to be climbed. This one was no different, although a paved road did indicate the path for as high up as we climbed.



Like most places in the nation, there are adequate places to buy anything you might need to conquer the mountain. Not pictured to the left is a more-than-adequate supply of walking sticks - one of which the Lady in Red walked away with.



More than a few groups come to Suraksan to hike the mountain - so pick a flyer to join one of them. A bit tacky, but possibly helpful - if you can read Korean or can sign up in Korean.



Follow the road uphill to the welcoming gate. While the purist hikers may disapprove of the road, it's admittedly easier to follow - and a lot easier to get a car up. Not pictured are a number of permanent shops and restaurants, some featuring the infamous bosintang (dog meat soup).



While walking up the mountain, we came across 노강서원 - Nogang Seowon, or a Confucian school. Originally built in 1689 in Noryangjin (central Seoul), the school was built in tribute to Bak Taebo, who was exiled for opposing the removal of Queen Inhyeon. Rebuilt on the site of Cheongjeolsa (temple), it was one of 47 seowon to be allowed to operate under the government of Lord Taewon. Not a whole lot worth seeing, but a reminder that generations of Korean children really did have to walk two kilometers uphill to school.



Here there be dragons!

While there are several hiking trails up Suraksan, quite a few will take you past 석림사, or Seoklimsa (temple), also called 'Suklimsa'. While the English version of the engraved sign has a number of typos, the temple was first founded in 1671. The temple was rebuilt several times, but was completely burnt down in 1950 during the Korean war. In 1960, a nun happened to call at the temple and decided to rebuild it. By 1965, 'Sangin nun' had rebuilt the temple with her own hands.



The main building - we didn't try to get in, but it didn't exactly appear open to tourists.



One of the other buildings of the temple.



I broke my rule of not photographing Buddhas - but then again, there was no one around to stop us. A wonderful sight - one that needs to be experienced for yourself, if you can make the trip up. Each of the smaller Buddhas is essentially identical - and there are hundreds.



No sign indicates what's inside this pagoda, although it's a beautiful sight no matter.

There's plenty more of the mountain to see, but we didn't intend to hike the entire thing. It's a quick day trip from anywhere on the Seoul subway system, and the small temple is worth the trip by itself. If you're interested in hiking the mountain, there are ample maps available to navigate the several trails around the area.

Ratings (out of 5 taeguks):
Ease to arrive:

Foreigner-friendly:

Convenience facilities:

Worth the visit:


Directions to Suraksan: Take line 7 all the way to the northernmost terminus of Jangam. Only every other train goes all the way north; if the train you get on ends at Dobongsan, get off and wait for the next train to take you to Jangam. Once there, go out the only exit and walk towards the road. Look across the road for the mountain and the crab in the first picture. Walk past a number of restaurants and stores, and you'll eventually see the maps of Suraksan.

Creative Commons License © Chris Backe - 2010

This post was originally published on my blog, Chris in South Korea. If you are reading this on another website and there is no linkback or credit given, you are reading an UNAUTHORIZED FEED.

 

COEX and Ho Lee Chow

After our visit to the Mario Outlets at Gasan Digital Complex, my mind (which habitually strives for logical ideas) has developed a new appeciation for fashion. Is this normal for a poverty stricken molecular biology student who grew up on hand-me-downs and is proud of the various stains on his white labcoat?

Sure, I think.

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There's a fuzzy line between what consitutes unreasonable spending to compensate for social insecurities versus creative representation of personal identity. I guess that particular fuzzy line is defined by how much your wife is willing to let you spend. Heather and I almost never wear hats, because it seems that we weren't endowed with heads that complement them very well. Except for when I wear my wide-brimmed farmer's hat while inoculating down in the rice fields of Suwon.
But that's specifically to keep the sun off my noggin, not to impress the fantastic agricultural ajummas who patrol the area in gumboots.

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This young shop assistant at COEX was energetically explaining to me that I was not to take photos in their shop, and she would have been indecipherable had I tried to understand from her hand signals alone. Because we just had a pitcher of beer in a bar called Jug, I was feeling a little silly. So I played the wide-eyed foreigner card and pretended to misinterpret her instructions into thinking that she wanted me to take a photo of her. Hilarity ensued.

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Delicious Chinese cuisine has infected the world like a benevolent virus. The early immigrants to the first Chinatowns overseas went through many hardships and it's likely that their cooking skills played a critical role in helping them to respectfully survive in their new home countries. The flavours of authentic Chinese cooking across the globe changed as cooks adapted to local preferences and regional ingredients. Interesting self-reflections of the host country can now be seen in  many dishes, from fried ice cream to pineapple cooked with chow mein.
Ho Lee Chow is an American Chinese restaurant chain with a few outlets around Seoul. They're one of a very few number of establishments willing to sell Chinese food that consists of things other than jajangmyeon, which is the Korean interpretation of Shandong fried noodles. Funnily enough, Korean style jajangmyeon is becoming popular as a foreign food in China.

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American Chinese food has also evolved from its origins, with dishes like sweet and sour pork, lemon chicken and Szechuan beef being staple favourites. These are all available at Ho Lee Chow, along with a complimentary pot of black tea. The photo above shows their interpretation of beef char kway teow, which we ordered out of pure curiousity.
Char kway teow, being a dish we specialised in at the Casuarina Malaysian Bistro, is difficult for me to consume without a degree of overanalysis. To be nice, these ones weren't too bad, but realistically they fell short of the real deal. They had a fairly good smokey flavour from a high wok temperature and the beef was quite good. But the noodles suffer from being reconstituted from the dried import form and there was an overabundance of two kinds of onion. Char kway teow really needs fresh noodles like those from Taings.
Still, they get full marks for being the first place in Korea to offer the dish in the first place.

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The other main dish that we ordered was fried aubergine. I like using the word aubergine as much as I like using courgette. This was quite good, with a tangy base for the sauce and not overly greasy from the deep fryer. The trick for crispy rather than greasy foods is to make sure the oil is searing hot when you pull the food out of it. That way it will be highly motile and can be easily drained with a sieve. Colder oil sticks to the food due to its viscousity at lower temperatures.

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We also ordered hot and sour soup, a personal favourite. This was also done well and I  enjoyed the bamboo shoots. Heather quite liked the food here and the service was quick and friendly. For those missing Chinese flavours from home, Ho Lee Chow is worth a visit.

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After eating slightly more than is reasonable for two married primates, we walked around to find a nice place to sit back and digest. We found this bar in the basement floor of the nearby MyThai restaurant, called MyBed. It was opened recently by the same owner, Hong Seok-Cheon, an actor who stunned our quaint little peninsula a decade ago by becoming the first South Korean actor to come out as a gay man. He was shunned by the industry and much of the public and soon found himself unable to get employment. So he opened a restaurant, and then a karaoke bar and has since become highly successful with multiple renowned establishments to his name.

Well, good on him, too.

Oh, and the cocktails here are pretty good.

Greatest American Lyricists

I had the pleasure today, while driving in my Cadillac Car and listening to the radio...

I had the pleasure of listening to Bruce Springsteen singing, Thunder Road,
a rare live version, with no guitar or bass or drums, just Roy Bitian on piano
while Bruce sung the song’s lyrics.  The screen door slams.  Mary’s dress waves. 
Like a vision she dances across the floor as the radio plays.  Roy Orbison sang
for the lonely Hey that’s me and I want you only…


It made me think of the great American singer/songwriters: Paul Simon, Bob Dylan,
Bruce Springsteen, John Foggerty, Cat Stevens, even Frank Black.  What is it about
some rock n roll songwriters that elevates them beyond the cool quick lyrics of say
Van Halen or Bon Jovi, who is another great American songwriter?  What is it that gives elite,
timeless status to singer/songwriters; as opposed to, what older Americans may have said
in the sixties when they first heard Rock and Roll. It’s just noise!?!?  What gives?

In 2010, classical musicians, classically trained and universally educated, perform works
composed by Handel, Mozart, and other classical musicians -- there is no weirdness in these
productions; like -- hey, these musicians didn't write the music; they didn't live in 18th or 19th
century Bavaria or Austrian-Hungary.  That question never comes up.  Anybody talented
enough can play Mozart or Puccini and gather acclaim.

So, when I saw that RUSH tribute band on Saturday night, my only feeling was -- 10 bucks
to hear RUSH's music from the 70's performed by a band that looked like RUSH from the
70's, as opposed to paying 80 bucks to see the real RUSH promoting their latest album –
Experiencing RUSH playing the live, extended version of Working Man with full on 12 minute
jam with less than 100 people watching -- I felt I was at the better show with the tribute
band. They were amazing. They put on stellar show. They were called Caress of Steel, and
they play in LA regularly.  Their singer can actually hit the old Geddy Lee falsettos.

Still, what about the great American singer/songwriters?  Even the Canadians, like Neil Young?

I've mentioned many of the great rock singer/songwriters -- what about other original
American genres of music?  Jazz, swing, blues -- other American original music hasn't
placed an emphasis on lyrics.

Lyrics -- that is what elevates Dylan and Springsteen over other worthy singers / songwriters
like John Foggerty or Bob Segar or Tom Petty.  It's the lyrics.  Dylan and Springsteen always
have at least 4 verses per song, sometimes 5; and their words go on for endless. 

I think Kurt Kobain was a great song writer, but he never had the lyrical, literary integrity that
Springsteen and Dylan have. Even Jim Morrison never had that Troubadour verse thing going
on.  Most rock songs work with catchy couplets or simple lyrics, but the Dylan and Springsteen
lyrics, more than any other American lyricist, not only tell a story, but do so in a longwinded manner.

So let’s cut to the OTHER American musical form -- RAP MUSIC or HIP HOP. I can think of
a lot of acts that I’ve loved. Public Enemy, Tribe Called Quest, De La Soul, Queen Latifah –
so many artists from the 80’s to the 90’s
to the new Millennium. Jay Z, Babyface, 50 Cent, Cyprus Hill – I’m a big fan of many hip hop
artists – I think Mos Def is most talented. Still, if I had to choose a favorite rock and roll band,
I couldn’t. There’s no way.  Queen, Zep, The Who, Lynyrd Skynyrd, ZZTOP, The Minuteman.
I could not choose a single favorite.  I like too many. 


However, if I had to choose a favorite rapper, I’d have no problem choosing.  Ice Cube would
be my choice. Hands down. I’ve been a fan of Ice Cube since he was in NWA.  He wrote
their best lyrics, although Easy E sometimes rapped them.  Ice Cube is, in my opinion,
the greatest American songwriter in the rap genre, more than Chuck D. or any other rapper
in the 80’s, 90’s or 2000’s. Why? Is it cuz he is so offensive? Perhaps. It is his clear-cut
approach to life, speaking out about stuff that may offend. It is for this reason, not so much
the subversive element, as much as his honesty and ability to talk about taboo subjects in
such as clear light. 

It is for this reason that I deem ICE CUBE as the greatest lyricist of this current time. And
in the same way I elevate Dylan, who needs no props, and ICE CUBE, who gets only props
here, I think Eminem is the voice of my generation come 2010. Eminem’s RELAPSE album
is the great music, lyrically, that has come out America since Bob Dylan.

This is my mere opinion. And here are some Eminem lyrics from Relapse. Enjoy. 

Here comes the rain, and thunder now
Nowhere to run, to run to now
I disappeared, they'll wonder how
Looking for me, I'm underground

Dre, I'm down here, under the ground, dig me up
Broken tibias, fibias, yeah fix me up
60 sluts, all of them dying from asphyxia
After they sip piss through a Christopher Reeves sippy cup

Dixie cups, toxins, boxes of oxy pads
Enough oxy cotton to send a fucking Ox to rehab
Whack job in the back, in a black stocking cap
Jacking off to a hockey mask, at a boxing match

"He can't say that", yes he can, I just did faggot
Now guess again, you better text message your next of kin
Tell em shit's about to get extra messy, especially when
I flex again, and throw a fuckin' lesbian in wet cement


Faggoty faggoty faggoty, raggedy Anne and Andy, no
Raggedy Andy and Andy, no it can't be, it can't be
Yes it can be, the fuckin' anti-christ is back Danny
It's Satan in black satin panties

This is Amityville, calamity, god damn it insanity
Pills, fanny pack filled with Xany's
Through every nook and cranny, lookin' for trannys
Milk and cookies, spilt on my silk negligee, looky

Razor b-lades with me to make you b-leed
Cases of Maybelline make up lay on a table of weed
Slim Shady, shit sounds like a fable to me
'Til he jumps out of the fuckin' toilet when you're takin' a pee

Here comes the rain, and thunder now
Nowhere to run, to run to now
I disappeared, they'll wonder how
Looking for me, I'm underground

6 semen samples, 17 strands of hair
Found in the back of a van after the shoot with Vanity Fair
Hannah Montana prepare to elope with a can opener
And be cut open like cantaloupe on canopy beds

And gladbags yeah, glad to be back
Cause last year was a tragedy that landed me smack dab in rehab
Fuckin' doctor, I ain't understand a damn what he said
I planned to relapse the second I walked out of that bitch

Two weeks in Brighton, I ain't enlightened
Biting into a fuckin' vicodin like I'm a viking
Oh lightening is striking, might be a fuckin' sign I need a psychic
Evaluation, fuck Jason it's Friday the 19th

That means it's just a regular day
And this is the kinda shit I think of regularly
Fuckin' lesbian, shouldn't of had her legs in the way
Now she's pregnant and gay, missing both legs and begging to stay

Here comes the rain, and thunder now
Nowhere to run, to run to now
I disappeared, they'll wonder how
Looking for me, I'm underground

Tell the critics I'm back and I'm coming
To spit it back in abundance
Hit a fag with onions, then split a fag of Funions
Mad at me, understandable, cannibal, shoot an animal
out of a cannon and have him catapult, add an adult

Captain of a cult, with an elite following
To turn halloween back to a trick or treat holiday
Have Michael Myers looking like a liar
Swipe his powers, replace his knife with flowers and a stack of flyers

Hit Jason Vorhees with a 40, stuck a sepository up his ass
And made him tell me a story, gave Hannibal lector a fuckin' nectarine
And sat him in the fuckin' fruit and vegetables section and gave him a lecture

Walked up elm street with a fuckin' wiffle bat drew

Fought Freddy Krugar, and Edward Scissorhands too
Then came out with a little scratch, ooh
Looking like I got in a fucking pillow fight, with a triple fat goose

Insanity? can't it be vanity, where's the humanity

In havin' a twisted fantasy with an arm and leg amputee
Straight jacket with 108 brackets
And a strap that wraps twice around my back, then they latch it
.
Cut your fuckin' head off, and that's where you headed off to

Get it, headed off to? Medic, this headache's awful
this anesthetic's pathetic, so's this diabetic waffle
and this prosthetic arm keeps crushing my hard taco

Here comes the rain, and thunder now
Nowhere to run, to run to now
I disappeared, they'll wonder how
Looking for me, I'm underground


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