Jesus Christ – a fitting place to start part 2 of the Jeonju post. Part 1 is here, so go back and read it again!

One Jeonju landmark is the Jeondong Catholic Church. It borders the Jeonju Hanok Village, and is noted as National Treasure #288 by the powers that be. They neglect to mention much of the church’s history on the official tourist page, as well as Korea’s past towards making martyrs of Catholics in this very place. A sign on-site honors the memories of two martyrs executed here in 1791 and two more in 1801. French Father Baudounet began the construction in 1908 as the Joseon Dynasty came to an end. Completed in 1914, this is the largest Western-style structure in southwest Seoul – perhaps not a reason to visit on its own, but combine it with the other sights around Jeonju to make the trip that much more interesting.

The dozens of stained-glass windows inside are gorgeous. While there are no (visible) rules on photography, not disturbing the faithful would seem to be a paramount concern.

Although under construction, the Jeonju Pungnammun was the south gate of Jeonju’s fortress, and is the only one that’s left. First built during the Goryeo dynasty, the gate was burned down in the 16th century, then was rebuilt in 1768 by Jeolla’s governor and named Pungnammun. The gate was under construction – of course, more than a few locals decided to jump the flimsy fence and photograph what’s inside.

The gate’s door – rusted but firm.

Quite similar to Gwanghwamun gate at Gyeongbokgung in Seoul, the ceiling of the gate hasn’t yet been repainted, but I suspect it’s in the works.

Another stop was the 정주 객사 (Jeonju Gaeksa), or a guest house for Joseon-dynasty envoys and officials. These days it’s more of a place to sit and rest, or perhaps a landmark for the shopping street (객시길) next door:

The long, straight aisle offered a few side streets, but for the most part was similar to most other shopping places around Korea.

Our most curious stop was the supposed Jeonju Chinatown:

A fairly impressive facade doesn’t make up for the complete lack of people – and almost complete lack of businesses! No Chinese food places, no visible Chinese presence… well, OK, there is a tourist information center:

Yeah… Not only is the place closed, it’s decrepit. If you’re coming to Jeonju, you can skip the Chinatown completely and not miss a thing.

Next stop – Imokdae and Omokdae:

Pretty. Omokdae’s claim to fame: where Yi Seong-gye returned to after triumphantly defeating Japanese pirates at Hwangsan in 1380. The monument dates to 1900, and then-King Gojong wrote the inscription.

Try not to look too underwhelmed here – there is some history behind the structure (there always is), but most people seemed more interested in letting their children run around or in hiking to this, the top of the hill. Imokdae’s claim to fame is being the residence of the great-great-great-grandfather of King Taejo. Historic? Technically, yes – but in this case, drop the history lesson and enjoy a breath of fresh air before continuing your journey.

Our next major stop: 전주 향교 (Jeon-ju Hyang-gyo), or the local Confucian school. The yangban (aristocratic class) would send their sons here during the Joseon Dynasty. The school was moved to the current location in 1603 because the previous place was too far from the center of town. The 350-year-old trees bear witness to the area’s enduring status, even as the buildings have been repaired and restored.

While most of the school / shrine seems well-maintained or under construction, this mysterious stairway was hidden from view, discovered only accidentally while trying to figure out how to get to the building at top.

The man himself. This shrine is in serious need of restoration, with quite a bit of rotting wood on the porch. An old stone monument seemed to identify the place or person, but the entire thing was in Chinese hanja.

A few buildings are still under construction, so head there to see the old and new.

Our last major stop – 덕진공원 (Deokjin Park). Deokjin Lake makes up a healthy portion of the park, complete with lotus flowers during the summer and the long suspension bridge you see above. There’s a pleasant sculpture park as well:

같은곳 그자리 (Beside the spot) by 한상진 (Han Sang-jin).

The Lady in Red and I relaxed and watched the sun go down before heading back to Jeonju station

Ratings (out of 5 taeguks): How do I rate destinations?

Ease to arrive:

Foreigner-friendly:

Convenience facilities:

Worth the visit:

 

Directions: Getting around Jeonju is relatively easy, as virtually every bus in town stops by Jeonju Hanok Village. Use this as a central point, as Jeondong Catholic Church and Jeonju Pungnammun are right across the street from the Hanok Village, while Imokdae and Omokdae are up the hill from the Hanok Village. Jeonju Hyanggyo is within walking distance and part of the village.

Directions to Deokjin Park: From Jeonju train station, take city bus 21, 109, 111, 113-1, or 142. You should be able to catch some or all of these buses from the Hanok Village as well.

 

© Chris Backe – 2011

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