
I had met Miju after school and we headed from Seomyeon to the streets of Choeup-dong in a taxi. We arrived at the final junction and hopped out of the cab. At the base of a simple T-junction seven Korean police officers, two “best-driver” taxi drivers and three retired military men (but dressed ready, John Terry style) were over-effectively directing the two-way traffic (the side-road was closed) with their annoying whistles and fluorescent batons. At the top of the side-road lay Samgwangsa one of the most important Buddhist Temples and possibly one of the largest in the region.